Bacaro Tour nr.2

23 03 2014

In my previous post titled “Bacaro Tour nr. 1“, I covered some of my favourites “bacari”, the places in Venice where you can have a wine of glass together with some “cicchetti”. As already explained, the “cicchetti” are the typical Venetian tapas, such as “polpette” (fried balls of meat/vegetable/tuna fish), crostini (small pieces of bread topped with stockfish cream or salami/cheese), “sarde in saor” (sardines marinated in oil, vinegar, onion and raisins).

The first tour was mainly located in the Dorsoduro District, while this second tour is dedicated to the Rialto area, ending up at Cannaregio.

The side of Rialto bridge where the market is sited is full of bacari. At happy hour time you can find hundreds of people standing outside with a glass of wine on their hands. In this area, one of the most famous and hystorical (it was born in 1462) bacaro is “Cantina Do Mori“. Located in the homonymous street, it’s not easy to find but the research is worth it. Here you can experience a real bite of Venetian life, eating the most authentic Venetian finger food and choosing among a large variety of wines. The place style is 100% Venetian, with a long wooden counter and no tables where to sit. Lots of copper pots hanging from the ceiling make it truly characteristic.

Cantina Do Mori

Cantina Do Mori

Now cross the Rialto Bridge on the opposite side and walk straight until Campo San Bortolomio (you should see the statue of Goldoni in the middle of the square). From here, take the “Sotoportego della Bissa” covered passage and walk straight. Cross a bridge and then take the first left (a pharmacy is on the corner). Pass the bridge called “Ponte delle Paste”, walk a few steps and you will have in front of you the bacaro “Al Portego, another meeting point for young people at happy hour time. This is a very small place (there are some tables but they’re reserved for the restaurant customers), but the offered selection of cicchetti is quite wide, as well as the wine choice. The service may not be the friendliest, but the place deserves a try.

Al Portego

Al Portego

Now go right and left, cross the bridge at the back of Malibran theatre, go straight across Corte Seconda del Milion, Sotoportego del Milion and Corte Prima del Milion. At the San Grisostomo church (with pink walls), turn right, cross the brigde (Ponte dei Giocattoli) and turn right again. Walk 200 meters and you’ll find, on your right, a small but delightful bacaro: Mondo Divino. This is definitely one of my favourite bacari in Venice (that’s why I dedicated an entire post to it). It used to be a butcher until 40 years ago and so, on the outside walls, you can still see the old shop signs and decorations with bovine images. A huge variety of delicious cicchetti, the largest I’ve found in Venice, combined with the humour and kindness of the owners, Andrea and Sabina, makes the perfect mix for an unforgettable aperitive or meal.

Mondo Divino

Mondo Divino

Going back to the Ponte dei Giocattoli bridge, go right and follow the signs towards the train station (ferrovia). At the feet of the fourth bridge, on your right, there’s the bacaroVecia Carbonera“, which owes its name (that means old coal deposit) to the coal shop sited here in the past. An interesting stop in your bacaro tour.

Heading north trough the near Campo Santa Fosca, you’ll soon reach the Fondamenta della Misericordia, where you can find one of the most famous bacaro in Venice: Il Paradiso Perduto. The street where it is located is one of the most lively and frequented by Venetian residents and it’s rich in restaurants and wine bars with tables facing the characteristic canal. Il Paradiso Perduto is not my favourite place – a little too messy and crowded for me – but you cannot miss it. Along with a good glass of wine and a good cicchetto, her people can often enjoy some live music too.

Il Paradiso Perduto

Il Paradiso Perduto


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